2364 km so far.
When we woke up this morning, the rain had stopped, but there was no sign the sun was ever going to come out. We packed up quickly, but by the time we’d got the soaking tent stored away, the rain had started again. We ate our breakfast of muesli and soy milk in a covered area where some other tourists were having their morning cigarettes.
There’s nothing we love better than sharing the fresh outdoors with smokers.
We decided to go into Szentendre for a coffee and a little work, and to see if we could wait out the rain. As we sat in front of our computers, it just got heavier and heavier.
By 11am, it was still coming down in buckets, so we trimmed our route for the day from 45 km to 25 km. Then we set off.
We didn’t get far though, since we had to stop and try what is purportedly the best langos in Hungary. Langos is like a flat donut spread with sour cream, rubbed with garlic, and sprinkled with grated cheese. I can’t speak for the relative quality of these particular langos, but I can definitely attest to their deliciousness.
After langos, we couldn’t delay any longer.
When you ride in the rain, you get it from above and from below, as the water hits the pavement and splashes back up at you. This wasn’t so bad for the first 8 km or so when we were still on the bike path. But it soon petered out, plopping us on a busy two-lane road. Then we were unable to swerve to avoid the worst puddles, and unable to avoid the mini-river running down our side of the road. Every time a car went by, we got a little extra bonus water and muck splashed up at us from under their wheels.
Everything was wet. Wet wet wet.
The water ran straight down our legs and into our shoes. Soon our feet were sloshing around with every peddle stroke.
The one saving grace was that it wasn’t that cold. Usually my toes go numb as soon as the sun ducks behind a cloud, but today I could feel all ten of them for the entire ride.
We rode the 25 km in about an hour, going faster than we’ve done in weeks, just motivated by the desire to get there and get dry. Then, instead of camping, we paid too much for a pension. Just after we checked in, it stopped raining, of course.
People and animals emerged from their hiding places to greet the sun.
We did too, taking a quick tour of the sights of Visegrad.
Luckily, the pension had a full kitchen which we weren’t quite sure if we should be using or not. We find that in these situations, it’s always better not to ask. It’s much harder for them to say no once you’re already half-way through making dinner. Plus, we always leave things slightly cleaner than we found them, so really they should be thanking us.
We ate a hearty meal of bubble and squeak made with local potatoes and cabbage. Instead of sausage, we used seitan that we’d bought in Budapest. It was kind of delicious!
Tomorrow we plan to make up for the distance we lost today, so the alarm is set for 6:30am.