A Snail’s Pace: Cycle Touring Lago Trasimeno, Italy

By Stephen Ewashkiw | April 5, 2013

The rain that was constant all night long had graciously stopped by the time we woke up. We decided that instead of the 90 km we biked yesterday we would make today a much shorter, slower travel day. We planned to only go 25km, slowly riding around Lago Trasimeno to a ferry which would take us to Isola Polvese where there is a hostel.

We had a lot of catching up (still) to do online, so we decided to spend the morning in the cafe at the campground. This was partly inspired by the rain, which had begun again. We drank Americanos in the freezing cold cafe, re-powered our various devices, and went online. Just after noon the rain had stopped, so we broke camp and headed out. It was one o’clock by the time we left. Today will be a slow day.

The gorgeous Lago Trasimeno in Umbria, Italy is an ideal location for a slow day of cycling or a gorgeous stop on your Italian cycle tour. Find out why...

Can You Picture This? (RIP Jane Henson)

The nice thing about a slow day is we don’t feel the need to keep going, going, going. We can look around a bit more, see the countryside, and stop for pictures when we feel like it. We did just this. Donkeys eating a farmer’s olive grove, an amazing collection of graffiti, Castel Rignone, stunning with its olive groves, vineyards overlooking Lago Trasimeno, and kite surfers on the lake (which I had to stop and photographed for Tommy, Julie, and Shane)…

cycling isola polvese

Jane admiring the street art near Isola Polvese.

The Water’s Edge

We were the only passengers on the ferry that took us to Isola Polvese where we will find our bed (yes, a real bed) for the night.

The island is a scientific and educational park and we are the only inhabitants (besides the staff) in the only inhabited building on the island. One thing I noticed on our lakeside ride to get here was that much of the lake’s edge was still wild, reedy, and doing its job of filtering out the effluence of life before it can get to the many fish that live in the lake.

On the island, there is an entire museum dedicated to the water plants of the area, which just goes to show you how important plant life at the water’s edge is (are you listening, Marina Del Rey?). As we unloaded our bikes from the ferry a school group was waiting to board and head back to the mainland after a day of environmental study. I think we finally found the slow Umbria we had heard so much about.

View from Isola Polvese

Soundtrack: Benji Hughes, A Love Extreme | Chris Isaak, San Francisco Days (why weren’t either of these artists massive successes? They are both AMAZING)  


  1. Comment by Mauricio

    Mauricio April 6, 2013 at 9:47 am

    Oh I bet the bed felt great

    • Comment by Stephen

      Stephen April 8, 2013 at 2:22 am

      It sure did. We are travelling a bit more slowly now as we are headed to Ancona, which we could do in a day, but we have mail arriving there on Friday. While 90 km is fun to do in a day, 30-40 is more my speed!

  2. Comment by Tommy

    Tommy April 5, 2013 at 1:35 pm

    Oh fabulous! Thanks for that!!

    • Comment by Stephen

      Stephen April 8, 2013 at 2:23 am

      I had to stop as I knew we have a few kite-surfing readers. Glad you liked it.!

Comments are closed.

Go top
Share via