12,477 km so far.
Countless blogs and travel articles have warned us of the dangers that abound when crossing from Thailand into Cambodia at the Poipet border crossing. I was preparing for a lawless frontier: people offering fake visas, kids with slippery fingers digging into our pockets, and marketeers trying to foist upon us all sorts of stuff we didn’t want to buy.
Basically, it was going to be like a less violent version of Tombstone, AZ circa 1880.
So with guns at the ready, we set off for the Thai-Cambodia border.
Where Have All The Scammers Gone?
The stories warn of myriad touts enticing you into their ‘official’ visa office, to expedite your visa. Apparently they will give you a fake visa which is then, naturally, useless at the border. The only time someone approached me was when we stopped to take a few photos. He asked me if we had our visas and, of course, I said yes (not true). He then went on his way, looking for another mark.
One of the advantages of cycling is that we move pretty quickly. It is hard to hassle us as we ride past. We see lots of people lugging backpacks, or worse yet, dragging a rolling suitcase along the rough roads. Maybe the sharks are more likely to attack these stragglers.
To us, all the hype about touts and scammers was just hot air.
The border area itself is truly remarkable. It is by far the most interesting and busiest border we’ve been to since we crossed overland from Syria to Turkey in 2006.
There were people pushing or pulling massive wooden carts lined with tarps. These tarps were filled with fish – live fish – in water. The fish fetch a higher price in Thailand, but the people selling them don’t own trucks or motorcycles. So they use human power to drag their precious cargo from one country to the other.
Market stalls and food carts line both sides of the road, and there is a giant goods market right next to the border crossing. Cars, trucks, bicycles, and scooters form a moving sea of steel, while people on foot flow along beside and through the traffic.
We weaved through this madness, following the huge signs that say “To Border”. There is a spot where the traffic crosses mid-intersection in the border area, switching from left-hand to right-hand drive. Incredibly, it works quite well.
Checking out of Thailand took just a few minutes even though we had to go upstairs in an institutional building. We left our loaded bikes with a couple of border guards, crossing our fingers that they would be safe. Of course, they were.
Brave New World
There is a section between the Thai border and the Cambodian border which is a no-mans’ land regulation-wise. It is home to huge but rundown casinos and people selling all sorts of goods brought in from one side or t’other of the border.
After we crossed the great divide, the check-in to Cambodia couldn’t have been simpler. We had to provide a passport photo, fill out a perfunctory form, and pay 20 USD each, plus a small semi-official bribe of 100 Baht each.
We’ve read that some people argue about the bribe to avoid paying it. For us this doesn’t make any sense; our mantra in these situations is “don’t piss off the border guards”.
Even with the ‘tourist tax’, the entry into Cambodia cost half as much as our entry into Laos, and only took about 5 minutes.
Cambodia, in its current form, has only existed for 35 years. It’s a country in its infancy.
Things are still advancing, modernising, getting paved, being rebuilt. In short, it is dusty.
Bringing Green Back
While the Cambodia riel is the official Cambodian currency, the US dollar is the unofficial one, accepted and requested almost everywhere. So we have pulled our emergency US cash from the bottom of our bags and can finally put it to use.
The small convenience stores and markets we stop in normally use the riel, but they are used to taking greenbacks and giving change in riel. This mixing of the currencies also eliminates the need for coins. Riel essentially are the coins, at least to foreigners.
It would have been totally easy for someone to short-change us today while we tried to figure out this crazy system, but no one did.
ATMs here spit out crisp Ben Franklins. Since nothing we buy costs more than a couple of bucks, this is a pretty useless denomination.
No one has 400,000 riel sitting around to give you in change.
We stayed in a small town only 50 km from the border, so haven’t seen much of Cambodia yet.
Tomorrow we have a 100 km+ ride to Siem Reap, so I expect we’ll have plenty of opportunity to see a few more villages and ride past many more of the skinniest cows we have ever seen. ♥
Want to see the route map? View it on Ride With GPS.
Hi, I’m Stephen. I travel the world leading Adventure Yoga workshops and trainings. Plus I run My Five Acres with Jane. I’ve taught yoga in 25 countries and we’ve had adventures in more than 50! My goal is to empower you to decide who you want to be and what you want from life — and to help you cultivate the courage you need to to go get it.