Still Finding Our Rhythm

By Jane Mountain | April 8, 2013

Stephen on a ledge

We were up early(ish) today and, thanks to a bit of extra organization last night, managed to leave our little farmhouse around 9:30. We decided to head back into Gubbio to see the town properly before moving along.

We rode through the streets of town until we found a cute cafe with WiFi. Stephen ordered us some coffee and pastries, to supplement the breakfast we’d eaten less than an hour ago.

I spent the next hour or so uploading the latest blog posts while Stephen did some mysterious important things on the iPad. Honestly, I have no idea what he gets up to while I’m working hard to bring you all the latest news. Maybe we’ll find out in a future blog post.

street in gubbio italy

Downtown Gubbio.

There are a few other updates I need to make to the site, so I spent some time trying to do that too, but nothing seemed to be working, so finally I gave up. Since it was almost noon, I suggested we hit the road.

I’m trying very hard not to be impatient, outwardly or inwardly, but when my body feels like it’s time to go, I just want to get on the bike and get a few miles under my wheels. Stephen is never ever in a hurry (not on this trip, or in ‘real’ life) so it is extra hard for me to watch him take his time doing things I deem unimportant when I just want to go.

I am a good yogi though, and experienced in how relationships work, so I fully understand that this is my problem to overcome, not his. And quite honestly, I wish I could be a little happier just sitting back and watching the world go by.

Eventually we left the cafe (after buying some locally made chocolate for the road) and headed back the way we had come.

The owner of the agriturismo where we’d stayed last night had recommended (in Italian) a road heading up into Parco Monte Cucco that was beautiful and free from traffic. We decided to try to find it but first we needed something for lunch.

I lost track of the number of places we stopped to try and get something, but nothing looked good. If we weren’t vegetarian, picnic lunches would be much easier. I say vegetarian (and not vegan) because we ended up with bread, tomatoes, and mozzarella as our lunch. Without cheese, there was nothing of substance to be had.

By 1pm, we were finally ready to hit the trail. I think I managed my impatience well, but Stephen can tell you the real story. I am coming to the realisation that I prefer biking early and then relaxing later in the day.

We found the recommended road easily enough, but it went straight up a mountain as we expected it might, so we opted for the long way around. This took us on a pretty route through the Parco Monte Cucco   but it basically doubled back on the road we’d taken this morning, so after 60 km of riding we are only about 20 km away from Gubbio where we started. We did manage to leave Umbria and enter Le Marche early in the afternoon though.

Happily, we are now quite cozy in the only hotel in the lovely little town of Cantiano.

town square in cantiano italy

Cantiano town square.

It’s been a long time since we’ve heard the kind of silence we had this evening in Cantiano. As we walked through the streets filled with dark and apparently deserted buildings, we could hear no traffic, no people, nothing. It was a little spooky.

old streets of cantiano italy

Still spooky.

It was also becoming clear that nothing was open, so no dinner would be available. After scouring every street in the town (I think there were four) we resigned ourselves to going back and eating what food we had in our panniers. As we entered the cafe connected to our hotel, we saw some action in a back room. We wandered down to look and discovered a hidden little restaurant, right in the place we were staying! At least we won’t go hungry tonight.  

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