Zadar In The Rain

By Stephen Ewashkiw | April 27, 2013

When we were in Trogir I managed to one-up Jane’s burning holes in the tent episode by tripping on the guy wire and ripping the fly along the seam. I was pretty pissed off with myself, pretty upset that our Big Agnes tent would tear so easily, and very happy Jane had damaged the tent first.

A Stitch In Time

Last night while wandering the old city of Zadar looking for dinner I noticed a small shop where two women were sitting at sewing machines, working away on various alterations. So, first thing this morning we headed over to Nit (no website, but this links to their information). When I walked in, the two women looked at me as if to say, “Sorry sir, you are clearly lost.” I assured them that I was in the right place and that I needed their help. I proceeded to pull out the tent and show them the tear.

As they don’t normally deal with tourists, their English was limited, but that didn’t stop us from communicating. They discussed the damage between themselves, asked us what this piece of nylon was, and found a spool of thread that matched. Within minutes, one of them set to work on it. The attention to detail and care she put into the work as we stood there and watched was impressive. Fifteen minutes, a few photos (during which the woman not doing the sewing joked to her friend she must be exotic), and a discussion of our trip later, the tent was repaired.

woman sewing croatia

Expert at work.

We didn’t expect it to be so easy, or to be completed while we waited, but there it was, done and dusted before we’d even had coffee.

Wheels Down

As you’ll know by now, any full day we have in a city is usually filled with errands. Today was no different. After coffee and pastry (aka second breakfast) we headed to a bike shop we noticed yesterday on our way into town. It turned out to be more than we could have hoped for and we were able restock our chain lube supply and also get a head cover for Jane, to protect her scalp from the sun. Thanks Rog Joma!

After lunch the rain dictated that it was time for a break. We headed back to our very central and incredibly cool hostel, Hostel Forum Zadar, for an afternoon nap (me) and website update (Jane).

The Sound Of Music

An hour later the rain still hadn’t let up but we wanted to go see the Sea Organ, an impressive and unique work of art. Jane wisely suggested it would be all the more impressive with the waves the storm was kicking up. She was not wrong. In the pouring rain, we had the entire seafront to ourselves and were both incredibly moved by the song of the waves.

The organ is the brainchild of architect Nikola Bašić. Waves from the sea push air through organ pipes embedded in the seafront stairs. The resulting music is haunting, hypnotic, powerful, and reminds you of the randomness, beauty, and power of nature.

Bašić has also installed a companion piece called Sun Salutation, which collects the sun’s power during the day on PV cells, and at night performs an impressive light show, as well as powering the lights along the waterfront.

Of course, we had to come back later that evening to do a few sun salutations of our own.

sea organ zadar croatia

Some panels seemed to be burned out.

As we moved through the sequence, several women lined up next to us and copied the shapes of the poses. Does that count as my first Croatian yoga class?  


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