Cambodia

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Feel Good, Inc.

13,053 km so far. The ride from Phnom Penh to Takeo is a relatively short one, which meant we had time to return to Feel Good Café for breakfast. We went there yesterday to try their coffee and it is fantastic, so I wanted to buy some beans for the next few weeks of our […]

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Today, There Are No Pictures

12,972 km so far. Today, there are no pictures. Today we visited Security Prison 21, the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Like our trips to Auschwitz in Poland and The Terror Museum in Hungary, we felt obligated to see S21, the torture headquarters of Pol Pot’s brief but appallingly destructive regime. I couldn’t bring myself to […]

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The Day I Pet A Baby Cow

12,972 km so far. Today was a not particularly noteworthy highway ride from Kampong Chhnang to Phnom Penh, which we hadn’t even decided to visit until last night. After a few days in the countryside we’ve chosen to hit the city in search of good food, coffee, and a couple of nights’ good sleep. Cambodian […]

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Kmher New Year’s Party

12,881 km so far. There was no breakfast at the hotel this morning, and we’ve run out of cereal, so it was off to market to forage for food. Market mornings can be kind of fun, except today I was so hungry that I was already feeling a little crazy before we got there. Picking […]

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I Say Hello

12,782 km so far. When I was a child, I used to LOVE waving to boats that went past our summer cottage. It made me so excited when people waved back. I would sprint from the dock up to the cottage deck to wave at a boat I had missed. When the people taking a […]

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Another New Year

12,672 km so far. This morning, we really needed to have a lie in. Getting up for (almost) sunrise three days in a row has really taken its toll. Especially on Stephen, who thinks the only valid reason for getting out of bed is coffee. So, by around 7:30am we were on our bikes, excitedly […]

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Life On The Water

12,667 km so far. As the city busies itself with its morning chores, we ride out of Siem Reap along a deep Northern California-red dirt road. All around us businesses are opening, markets marketing, and people are doing trade of all kinds. Scooter repairs, food stalls, fruit juice carts, ice men sawing their chunks of […]

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Kids of Angkor

Before visiting Angkor, we had heard many tales about the children at the site. They are, so the story goes, as ever-present as mosquitos on the Mekong, aggressively selling trinkets and postcards to all comers. We mentally prepared ourselves for this feature of Angkor, knowing that these little faces begging us to part with “just […]

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Angkor Temples: Angkor Wat & Banteay Kdei

Angkor Wat for sunrise is a bucket list classic. Everyone who’s done it says it’s monumental; everyone who hasn’t done it wants to. My desire to get there for sunrise today was purely photographic. I wanted to be on the Angkor grounds, at some secondary temple, or roaming the roads, during the first golden light […]

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Angkor Temples: Too Early To Rise

12,621 km so far. Me: “Seriously, what time is it?” Jane: “5am.” Crap. I hate Angkor Wat. The Sun’ll Come Out Tomorrow OK, I don’t hate Angkor Wat. I am just not a morning person. But, we are in Siem Reap and the thing you do here is get up really early and go to […]

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