Indonesia

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It Ain’t Over ‘Til It’s Over

15,706 km so far. We are now officially off our bikes. Our journey isn’t over, and we may yet do some cycling on Bali, but we will be spending the next few weeks adjusting to a different pace of life and figuring out how to re-enter normal society. We’ve decided to keep writing until August […]

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Last Day On The Road

15,706 km so far. Maybe it was the terrible sleep we both had last night, with wild dreams caused by overly rich food too close to bedtime. Maybe it was the exhaustion from one too many tough rides in a row. Maybe it was the heightened aggression of the traffic. Maybe some planet was in […]

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Bali, Hi

15,604 km so far. A little more than 15 months ago Jane and I dreamed our trip would one day bring us to Bali. When we were in Berlin in September last year, the dream started seeming realistic enough for us to print “Beijing to Bali” cards for the second half of our trip. In […]

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Good Ride By The Seaside

15,480 km so far. After yesterday’s kerfuffle with the incompetent and dishonest folks who run the various public transportation options on Java, there was nothing for it but to get on our bikes and ride. But first, we enjoyed a hearty and delicious breakfast in the garden at Rumah Wahidin, which we highly recommend if […]

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Belly Of The Earth

15,385 km so far. Crossing the Tengger Caldera, which contains within its walls four newer volcano cones and the Sand Sea, felt like we were on another planet. The caldera is 10 km in diameter, and its base is covered entirely in black sand and ash that has been spit out by Bromo and the […]

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A Thoroughly Stupid Day

15,342 km so far. In 15 months of travelling, with many days that could compete for stupidest day, none were more stupid than today. It started out with the disheartening news that to enter the Mount Bromo park, we would have to pay the equivalent of $25 each. I was sure I’d read that it […]

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Three Flats And A Bad Road

15,351 km so far. Yeah, today’s title kind of gives the game away. Today was rough. This is the third day in a row that was supposed to be an easy ride, but didn’t end up that way. We did eventually make it to Pasuruan, but it took far longer than it should have to […]

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Tired Of Travel

15,289 km so far. I think the heat and the traffic and the sheer busyness of Southeast Asia are finally getting to us. It’s hard to get up in the mornings, hard to keep pushing ourselves forward, and hard to remember why we’re even doing this in the first place. Stephen’s note: I think it […]

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Know When To Say When

15,210 km so far. Last night we made a decision. Despite Jane not feeling her best, we would add almost 20 km to our route today. Rather than riding along the highway the whole day, we wanted to take small roads through the countryside. This made our goal for the day 114 km, to take […]

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Hell Is a Highway And We Are On It

15,134 km so far. Since the plan for today was to go 85 km on the highway, we kind of knew it would not be any fun. Right we were. Hey ho, it’s all part of the experience, and cycling on Java certainly is an experience. The highways across the island are not really highways […]

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